Our day started early – very early – with a border crossing into Poland at about 2 AM. A sharp rap on our train car door rouses us to grab our passports and greet the nice Polish commando at the door. He gives one glance to the eagle on the cover, flips it open to make sure it’s me – then moves on to the next compartment.
We caught a couple of more hours before rising at 5 AM to prepare for our 5:45 arrival in Kraków. We exited the train and went to the ticket window to buy train tickets to Auschwitz. We bought our tickets and carefully checked the departure times before going to the international counter to buy our tickets for Budapest. After a small mishap with the wrong date, we got the correct tickets and started walking in to the town center.

The town square in Kraków
Our first stop was at our hotel – the B&B LaFontaine. Though we couldn’t get our room yet – we could drop off our luggage and get checked in. There was a scary moment while they couldn’t find our reservation, but this was quickly resolved. Our hotel was ideally located – only a few feet from the town square. It was a quick walk to the square to grab a bite to eat at one of the sidewalk cafe’s that line the square. We had lots of time to absorb the environment – it took about two hours to get our breakfast and the check.
After breakfast, we embarked on our walking tour of the old town. One of the trip rituals was to use the always good walking tours included in Rick Steve’s book. This one started at the old city wall, proceeded through the town square, walked through the Basilica of St. Francis, and made our way up to Wawel hill. One of Heather’s favorite spots was the Basilica – since this was the “home church” of Pope John Paul II. A small silver plaque indicated the pew where he preferred to pray. Across the street in the park, there was an amazing photo exhibit of the life of the Pope.
As we were touring, we saw an enormous parade that seemingly contained everyone in town. We had unknowingly arrived on a national holiday – the Feast of Corpus Christi. For an hour, an endless parade of priests, nuns, locals in costume, and groups of children paraded down the royal way to town square. They even had wireless speakers broadcasting the songs being sung so the parade could sing along. The parade was long enough that I got a pretty severe sunburn on my feet where there were vents in my shoes. This led Beth to nickname me “Zebrafoot”.
Wawel Hill was next – it’s the castle hill and location of the main cathedral in Kraków. The cathedral is the craziest hodgepodge of architecture that includes every imaginable style – and a large set of bones. The legend says that they are bones from a giant – modern science says a dinosaur or mammoth.

The National Cathedral on Wawel Hill
After we completed a tour of castle hill, we went back to our hotel to check in and get cleaned up. Beth and Heather got cleaned up first and went down to the town square to relax and do some shopping while I got ready. We also took advantage of laundry service at the hotel to clean up some clothes that were getting very stinky due to the nonstop heat.
I quickly found the ladies in the square and joined them for a Zawiec (a polish pilsner) before heading off on foot for Kazimierz – Krakow’s Jewish quarter. It was about a two mile walk away from the town center but pretty easy to find. We toured a couple of the exhibits, including one with some good video footage of the Krakow ghetto.
One of the interesting parts of visiting Kazimierz was that Schindler’s List was filmed there. Since the ghetto (located across the river) was torn down at the end of the war, they had to film the movie in Kazimierz. Historically, the Jews were moved by force from Kazimierz across the river to the ghetto – where they were crammed in and forced to work in slave labor camps (such as Plaszow) before being deported to Auschwitz. In one place, you can still see the wall of the ghetto as it passes behind some apartments.

Oskar Schindler’s Factory in Kraków
Another key landmark that still exists across the river near the ghetto is Oskar Schindler’s factory. It’s not clearly marked – but with the right clues, we were able to find it with the help of some landmarks and the guidebook. While looking around the outside, a guard came out and waved us inside to give us a tour. Though there isn’t too much to see, we were able to go up to his office and see some areas prominently featured in the movie.
Dinner that night was one of the high points of the trip – it was easily one of the three best meals that we enjoyed. We ate at a restaurant called Restauracja Pod Aniolami – which translates into “Under Angels”. The atmosphere was great, the service was top notch, and the food was to die for. We started with delicious mushroom soup, then had pierogies that resembled potstickers. Our main course was an applewood-smoked pork skewer (like a shish kebab) that melted in your mouth. Our dessert of ice cream was the perfect finish. The meal was easily 10/10.

Heather and Beth dining at Restauracja Pod Aniolami
After dinner, we went pretty much straight to bed – we had an early train to catch to Auschwitz – 9:35 AM, as we saw on the schedule when we arrived in town that morning. If only it were that easy…
Check out the rest of the pictures at:
Behind the Iron Curtain 2006