Friday started out as Thursday ended – clear and rather cold. At some point during the night, it went below freezing making it tough to get out of the sleeping bag. A quick peek out of the tent door revealed a magical sight:

The fog that moved in during the morning chill was being burned off by the dawn sun. It’s really amazing to see! I scrambled out of my tent, grabbed my camera, and started snapping pictures like crazy. The one that I linked to above is my favorite of the bunch, and perhaps my favorite of the entire trip.
Heather enjoyed it by sitting near the lake reading her copy of “The Root Beer Lady” – the autobiography of Dorothy Molter. For those not in the know, Dorothy was a woman in her 70′s that lived in the BWCA most of her life until she passed away in the early 80′s She made root beer on her little island on Knife Lake and sold bottles of it to thirsty canoers. Heather read several chapters to us over the course of the trip, and it really hit home since Dorothy only lived about 10 miles from where we were staying.
Shannon, on the other hand, decided that the crisp morning would be the perfect time to swim. This insanity spread to my wife, who also decided to jump in. The novelty wore off quickly for them as they raced back out of the lake with a lovely blue tinge to their skin and a head-to-toe case of goosebumps.
We made up a breakfast of Bagel McMuffins (I -still- think a McD’s in Grand Marais is a $1M idea!) and set off for our day’s journey. We had planned to head northwest through French Lake, cross into Peter Lake, and loop back around somehow. When we got to French Lake (Insert cheesy radio jingle “It’s another Heather Top-10 Lake!!” here), we decided to take a quick look at the waterfall dividing Seahorse and French Lake along the portage to Seahorse Lake.

When we got to Seahorse, the Tufvanders saw the swampiness and decided to try to fish it. I have looked at the Seahorse – Warclub chain in the past and had been curious about how passible it was since it looked very swampy. The lakes turned out to be quite pretty, in a swampy sort of way. Both were navigable by canoe, but we were forced to portage over a beaver dam at one point.

We had lunch between Warclub and Fay Lakes consisting of shrimp, lime, tomatoes, and avacado on tortillas. It was a refreshing lunch in spite of the very underripe avacados that were still stonelike. We had planned on turning north and going to Jap Lake (now renamed Poulsen Lake on the map for some dopey PC reason), but since it was 2PM by now – we elected to head back to camp.
This route also required us to do the two ugliest portages in our area back to back – the 70 rod portage between Fay and Flying Lake, also known as “Dagobah” (named by Kermit) or “70 rods, My ASS!” (named by Wally) and the buttkicker between Flying and Green Lake.
We split from the Tufanders on the last couple of lakes so that they could get more serious about fishing. Heather and I gathered some wood along the portage and loaded it into the canoe since the wood selection was pretty bad near our campsite. Wally and Shannon made it back shortly after, no fish in hand.

Since swimming was out of the question for me (due to chilly water), I decided to rig a forest shower. I heated some water, filled a water carrier, grabbed a bungee and a tarp and headed into the woods. I placed the tarp on the ground, hung the bag in the tree with the bungee, and proceeded to take a hot shower. When I came back to camp all cleaned up, Heather and Shannon both decided a hot shower sounded great and took turns using it. Meanwhile, Wally kept muttering “I don’t need a shower. I can tell when I need a shower, and I don’t. If I did, I’d take one. I don’t. If I did, I’d just hit the hotspots with a washcloth. I don’t need to. I don’t need a shower.” Shannon returned a few minutes later and said “Wally! Your turn for a shower! You -need- one!” Wally stumbled into the woods muttering and grumbling.
The wind came up that night and made it a chilly evening around the fire. Wally tweaked his back working on the fire and decided he needed to go lay down since he really couldn’t walk or do anything around the campsite. This made for a very early evening and we all turned in pretty early.
All pictures from the trip can be found at:
BWCA 2005 Photos